Duratec alternator woes

[moosetestbestanden]

Tom, Scott, or anyone else out there, my alternator saga continues. The current (pun intended) fried, being re-built unit that Will provided has been determined to be of the "self exciting" type. That is, it was never connected back to the ignition / wiring harness in any way. The only electrical connection was direct to the battery.

The build manual suggests (for the Rover powered cars) that a 2 pin connector using BrownYellow & WhiteRed should be attached at the rear of the alternator.

So, the question is... how is (are) your alternator(s) connected? Are you using a self exciting alternator as well. If not, specifically how is it connected back to the harness?

Thanks:)

[Elv15]

Hi Chris,

Mine is just like yours. However, I do have a thicker gauge wire going from it (the alternator) to the starter (and from there to the battery).

I did look at connecting the rest of the wires from this alternator (via the round plug on the back of the alternator). However, this did not really work out as intended, as the specifc model I have (and I suspect that you have) does not have a remote voltage sensor circuit. It should be easy to source a similar alternator (they were used on suzuki samuari's and I think on the geo metro??). If I was going to replace it, I'd make sure I got one with the ability to do remote voltage sensing.

Let me know if this makes any sense!

Cheers,

[slomove]

If you decide to ditch your one-wire charger....the commonly used super lightweight NipponDenso alternators (compatible ones available from Bosch) for the Metro and other microcars are 3-wire systems. This page has wiring info

My friendly Mexican neighborhood rebuild shack had such an item for 30 Dollar. I upgraded from the original "boat-anchor" 2-wire Bosch alternator by tapping into +12V switched line of the injector solenoids.
If you are looking for metro alternators, I believe the real small and lightweight ones are before 1995 or so with the main charging output to the side. The ones after 1996 provide a few more amps but are bigger and with the output post to the rear.

At the time Doug gave me one of the Denso plugs he had left over.

Gert

P.S.: Forgot to say it comes with problems anyway....you will almost certainly need a new bracket if you do that (may have to be fabricated). Also, you may need a narrower belt. The small alternators usually have only 4 or even 3 grooves on the pulley. I could not get a wider pulley that fit without interference but it works without trouble anyway.

[moosetestbestanden]

Mine is just like yours. However, I do have a thicker gauge wire going from it (the alternator) to the starter (and from there to the battery).

Mine _used_ to have a thin gauge wire. I have duly replaced the spaghetti w/ a 12 ga. wire. I go directly to the battery rather than to the starter and then to the battery. Is your alternator on the exhaust side Tom? (mine is).

[Elv15]

Hi Chris,

Yes, Mine is pretty close to the header.

http://pierats.com/gallery/sevenbuild/res28429

FWIW, I did get the pigtail from the folks mentioned at the bottom of the link Gert posted, but it is fairly useless with this particular alternator model.

NOTE: mine is still setup this way and (knock on wood) it's still running fine.

[moosetestbestanden]

Yeah, it looks like our setups are pretty close to the same. I got the rebuilt original alternator back and installed it. No chance to drive as I finished after dark and the headlights are still not on the car. I'll know tomorrow, if the wind ever stops blowing a gale - it's really howling here.

Update: All repairs done. Looks like I'm good to go:D, after a liberal application of soap to the drive belt to silence the squeak (an old hot rodder's trick).