No announcement yet.

Pull-up or Pull-down Belts

  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Pull-up or Pull-down Belts

    I know it's been discussed in the Forum sometime in the past, but would any of you members be willing to briefly revisit the topic about seat belts and offer your recommendations about belt width, # of attachment points, and which is the easiest, better, "user friendly" method of tightening the loose ends......... pull-up or pull down? I have the cloth Caterham seats w/headrests. Use will be mostly for the street but I'd like them to also be legal for limited track days. The inertia belts are pretty close to being worthless, as latching them is a real chore as well as uncomfortable. I'd really appreciate some input! Also, any one particular brand better than the others for whatever reason?
    With Best Regards,
    Jim F.

  • #2
    I have pull-down ones and it drives me crazy it every time I get in.
    It is just foolish in a car where you don't have the space to get your hands in at the sides of the seats to pull it down. I am probably not going to wait until the harness expires but order a pull-up version sometimes soon. Actually not too expensive at Racerwholesale ($140 for a 7-point).


    P.S.: There was a discussion about width and attachment points but compliance with most regulation requires 3" lap/shoulder belts and at least 5 points.
    Last edited by slomove; May 26, 2006, 11:26 PM.


    • #3
      Hi Jim,

      The pull down belts are very difficult to adjust, especially if you are "big boned"! ;-) There is just not enough room to move the buckles. I don't have too much trouble, as I'm almost always the driver and the belts stay adjusted to fit me...but the passenger belt is truely a pain. I ended getting a new set of belts with pull up adjusters for the passenger and it makes it easier (there is still not a whole lot of room though). You can order custom belts if necessary.

      As far as width, I have the 3" belts and am quite happy with them. They are very comfortable. I don't end up using the crotch strap for city driving, but have it fitted for track work.

      If you have a caterham, there are mounting bosses for the four point belts and you have to drill some holes in the floor to fit the crotch straps.


      Tom "ELV15" Jones


      • #4
        I found the mounting bosses for the anti-sub belts directly behind the seat near the floor. There are arguments that this mounting point(s) is too far back, in line with the spine, and should be further forward and directly below the um... crotch. They say this reduces the possible virticle movement of the torso in the event of a rollover. This may be true but, it's the anti-sub aspect that's most important for me. I get that with everyting as it is. I don't want my internal organs forced through my gullet. As for the pull up pull down... up. I'm always adjusting my belts, when I get in, because I can't buckle them when they are as tight as I want them to be once I'm in. Just my luck... all that adjusting is weakening the belts and I'll fly out anyway.

        Scott E.


        • #5
          Hi Scott,

          Yes, I know what you mean about adjusting the belts once in the car. I have the leather seats and I find that I "settle" into them after being seated for a short while (10 minutes or so). This means that the lap belt needs to be very snug when I first get in or it will be too loose afterwards.

          I have the anti-submarine belt fitted - but find that it is quite uncomfortable for daily driving, so I don't end up using it. I would use it on the track though.
          Tom "ELV15" Jones


          • #6
            I'm using a 7 point harness from Pyrotect. It's pretty much the same as the standard six point harness from Caterham. The seventh point is an additional crutch strap running directly from the buckle down to the floor at the front of the seat. The standard (back of seat) crutch straps stop submarining forward while the seventh stops the whole belt system form rising should the car invert. Not a bad feature once you realize how much headroom you (don't) have in the case of a rollover.

            I also had a cross-bar fitted behind the seats so that the shoulder belts can wrap around the cross bar instead of bolting to the chassis. I think that should reduce the potential for failure due to pinched webbing.