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Hub upgrade assembly

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  • Hub upgrade assembly

    Let's play the game "Assembling stuff you purchased from Caterham with no instructions". Today's topic is the upgraded front wheel hubs.

    Attached are a number of images with the assembly order that I believe is correct. The upright still has the old stub axle in it. The new axle, F, is much sturdier. The two bearings, C, and D, are identical, with a rubber seal in one end (C1 and D2). B and E are spacerswith the same inner diameter as the bearings and stub axle.

    The bearings obviously fit in each end of the hub G and F.

    Then, the questions:
    1) Is the assembly order correct? Do I thread B, C, D and E onto the stub axle as shown?
    2) Do I press the bearings as far in as possible into the hub?
    3) What have I missed?

    Tnx.

    /Magnus F.
    Attached Files
    Last edited by magnusfeuer; March 12, 2006, 05:12 PM.

  • #2
    Magnus

    I've not done the hub upgrade so can only speak from similar experience.

    Your order looks OK and generally the bearings should be pressed up against a shoulder. Not too hard, just seated.

    Pierre has done this and if you can reach him might be able to confirm or deny what I have just said.

    I also believe M. Murhpy is doing it or having it done as well.

    Doug
    Last edited by Doug Liedblad; March 13, 2006, 11:35 AM.

    Comment


    • #3
      Doug is correct - I have the same collection of bits as you, but I have not tried to assemble them yet. To make matters really interesting, Caterham sent me the front hub upgrade kit with rear bearings included in the sealed package containing the front bits; and front bearings in a separate package with other parts for the rear. Took me a while to sort, classify and re-group the various pieces but I think I have everything I need.

      Comment


      • #4
        Plaintiff: Objection your honor, it is clearly stated that: "Please post any technical questions to blatchat.com's techtalk, since they have a much larger audience and knowledge base".

        Defense: Your honor, is is also written that: "Questions posted here should have a local bearing to California."

        Da Judge: "This inquiry has local bearings. To California." Objection Overruled.

        Slightly OT: Have y'all (by y'all I mean the non-upgraders out there) noticed all the posts about upgrades recently? Hubs, brakes, shocks, Freestyle theses, Nitron thoses?

        Gee, do ya think these fellers are thinking about racing? Could all this be out of their unbridled love for the car, and not merely an attempt to catch up / stay up w/ John? Do ya suppose Daddy Gotrocks has been sleeping over the winter?

        Wow! So the real racing has already begun! Shit! I missed the start.

        Rats.

        Oh well. Y'all have fun up there. I reckon a red misty sunset might make for pretty interesting viewing from where my po boy vantage point will very likely be. Happily, the track time will likely be even more fun:)

        As I wrote to Michael privately some time ago, here's the time-worn old gag:

        Q: How do you make a small fortune?

        A: Go racing w/ a large fortune.

        Back OT: Call or email CC?
        Chris
        ------------
        A day you don't go a hundred is a day wasted

        Comment


        • #5
          I spoke to [email protected] USA today.
          The two spacers B and E should switch places, otherwise the setup in my pictures are correct.

          I will probably assemble the uprights tomorrow, although I'll have to wait with final tightening until I get the ultra-super-spezial-nylocks for the lower wishbones.

          Cody sent me the last two of these little beasts today, which means that I have cornered the market.

          Please note that these nylocks are air pressure sensitive and cannot be air-freighted, thus have to go by boat from UK to the U.S, which usually takes between 8 and 12 months. Also, as we all know, a reused nylock in the lower wishbone was the mechanical reason behind Ayrton Senna's crash and death back in -94. Reusing nylocks in the front suspension has since then been the ultimate taboo in automotive racing.

          Trust me on this one, I am your web master.

          Michael, call me for a good price on those nylocks, and don't even look at the lock-tite bottle.

          /Magnus F.

          Comment


          • #6
            a question

            What does this upgrade do for your car?
            Rod Swanson

            Comment


            • #7
              The stock hub has a tendency of shattering when used on track with serious slicks. This has apparently happened a few times in England and once in the U.S. Also, the stub axle sometimes bends, making the brake disc grind against the brake pad.

              Better safe than sorry.

              /Magnus F.

              Comment


              • #8
                How much does it cost?

                Thanks

                Doug

                Comment


                • #9
                  When I visited MOG Racing last May Joachim showed me where his chassis had cracked and come apart at the diff mounts. He was running "with serious slicks", oversized I believe.

                  Be advised that "with serious slicks" the loads placed on the chassis will impact more than just the hubs & spindles.

                  This is probably a key reason why all the Caterham series in the U.K. and Euroland are limited to the Avon slicks (like those John had at the SoW last fall) at the most, and those only in the high dollar, er, pound racing classes. One sure fire way to limit cost hint hint...
                  Chris
                  ------------
                  A day you don't go a hundred is a day wasted

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I think I paid $660 for stub axles, hubs, bearings and various nuts and spacers.

                    The pictures at the beginning of this post clearly shows the difference between the old and the new stub axle, with the axle diameter being doubled.

                    /Magnus F.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I may add that I am mounting a pair of Avon slicks (serious or not) on the 13" wheels I have.

                      /Magnus F.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Too late, Magnus, I have developed a work-around for the pressure sensitive nyloc problem. My innovative design uses two jam nuts and an o-ring from a Sopwith Camel.

                        We'll see whether your nylocs have what it takes at Buttonwillow.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Chris, I look forward to hearing a drunken interpretation of the above stuff at Buttonwillow. Until then, keep buying new parts. It's an entirely natural guy-thing to do.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            While we are discussing this part of the car can anyone tell me the 'bolt pattern'
                            of our Caterham hubs for the purpose of shopping for wheels? I know it is a 4 bolt but, what is the distance between them? Is it measured across the center? Is there any offset spec to adhere to?

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Scott

                              I believe the bolt hole diameter is 4.25. They typically measure the diameter of a circle that goes thru the center of each bolt.

                              You should be able to confirm this and find offset information on Blatchat.

                              What type of wheels are you looking for?

                              If it's trackday wheels, check with Woody at MSI Motorsports. He got me a good deal on my Kodiaks.

                              Doug
                              Last edited by Doug Liedblad; March 16, 2006, 06:45 PM.

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