Schroedinger's Cat: has growled but now won't wake up

[jeremyclark]

After months of anticipation, I finally received a kit in November '15: a Seven 480 SV in Ballistic Orange. (I'll upload pics but upload doesn't seem to want to work - what am I doing wrong?).

So I got the corners on and the diff/propshaft in in my garage, then took the rolling chassis up to Rich Kamp in Sonoma to get some experienced help with engine/gearbox install and plumbing. Rich has done a great job, even though we were thwarted by some major shorts in the kit and some novelties in the engine packaging, especially the cooling layout that seems to be a hybrid of several other models. Two weekends ago I got to drive it around the wine country backroads, then trailered it home to Mountain View, driving it off the trailer and taking my wife for a quick spin around the neighborhood. Glorious, very satisfying - am really looking forward to bringing it to Club events and slinging it through corners.

Since then, though, it has refused to start up. Here's a link to a 1-min video of what happens: since it's a push button start, I turn the key to the ignition stop, push Start, which energizes the dash, then the second button push produces nothing other than a click: the starter motor does not crank. I presume the click is the switch, but there's no louder click indicating the solenoid operating.

Any suggestions for debugging? So far I've tried:

• Disconnecting/reconnecting battery
• Resetting the inertia switch (was tripped)
• Checking starter cables for fit/integrity (no apparent issues)

One theory we have is the immobilizer, which we are not sure whether this model has or not. Sounds odd, but we have mixed evidence: car comes with two key fob transponders, and the transmission tunnel top has an LED on the top-side and two wires on the underside, but there was no evidence of corresponding connectors inside the transmission tunnel itself. So we just taped up the loose wires and installed the tunnel top. Does anyone know definitively whether the 480/485 model has the immobilizer installed, and if so can you shed light on where the connectors for the leads in the tunnel on the car's wiring loom are? Of course if this were the issue, how did we ever get it started before?

Frustrating, but it might well be something obvious I'm not seeing - I expect one gets used to a head smacker or two. All suggestions appreciated. And pics soon as I figure that out.

Thanks,
Jeremy

[Doug Liedblad]

Photos to upload can't be too large a format, it should give you an error message.

Check the ground wire from battery to engine?

Maybe a silly question but is the battery fully charged?

[Doug Liedblad]

If your car has the traditional Banner wet acid battery that they used to come with, I recommend you remove it today and replace it with a AGM type battery. I use the Odyssey

My Banner battery leaked acid on the aluminum from a bad seal on the top seam. I caught it before any damage but it could have been very bad.

Doug

[jeremyclark]

Photos to upload can't be too large a format, it should give you an error message.

Check the ground wire from battery to engine?

Maybe a silly question but is the battery fully charged?

Thanks, Doug, will try smaller image sizes.

Will also check battery ground. Per your other reply, I also have the Odyssey; I wondered about charge, so I tried jumping it from my Subaru to no effect. I'll try to get hold of a charge meter to get the data.

It's odd: there's a definite electrical hum after the first Start button push - I get the feeling the charge isn't getting through to starter.

Jeremy

[jeremyclark]

Well, at least it looks good...
Clark 480 front lhs 2 4-17-16.JPGClark 480 front lhs 4-17-16.JPGClark 480 front rhs 4-17-16.JPG

[Doug Liedblad]

Do you have a battery cutoff switch? It would have a large red key. If this is off you might get a click but no power to starter.

Have you tested the starter? You can do this if you short the two large contacts on the starter. But use caution as this is MAJOR current flow and needs a large conductor, Be sure it is out of gear.

If not comfortable with doing this, remove starter and take it to the local auto parts store. Some of them can test.

Remember the above advice may be worth less than what you are paying.

Doug

[jeremyclark]

Do you have a battery cutoff switch? It would have a large red key. If this is off you might get a click but no power to starter.

Have you tested the starter? You can do this if you short the two large contacts on the starter. But use caution as this is MAJOR current flow and needs a large conductor, Be sure it is out of gear.

If not comfortable with doing this, remove starter and take it to the local auto parts store. Some of them can test.

Remember the above advice may be worth less than what you are paying.

Doug

Thanks Doug. I got it starting again by hooking up the immobilizer (build manual instructions were awful it helping me locate connectors on the car's harness) - with help from the factory. Based on various owners' comments and now my own experience it's clear the immobilizer adds no value and in fact just adds aggravation. I'll work towards bypassing the darn thing asap, but first I have a date with the CHP....

Jeremy

https://www.dropbox.com/s/87lyv806cd...0PARC.jpg?dl=0