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  • Engine build questions

    I am planning on rebuilding a Duratec 2.0l for a new Birkin. I'll most likely add stage 2 cams and raise the compression to 11:1 or so. Fairly conventional. Several questions have come to mind so far:

    In looking at used motors, are there any unusual problems to look for? Is there enough liner thickness to safely rebore to 88mm if needed?

    How much can safely be taken off the head? Do the heads tend to warp?

    In general, what is the consensus on the necessary bore size of the throttle bodies for such a project? I plan on using the Ford MS injectors as well.

    Have any of you seen electric water pumps used on these engines? Worth at least 10hp in the upper RPM range.

    Source for a well baffled shallow wet sump oil pan?

    On of the aspects of building this type of car is the freedom from "formula" constraints. That seems to be a common thread on this site and much appreciated.

    TIA
    Wide-body Birkin, 2.3l Duratec

  • #2
    Originally posted by Papak View Post
    I am planning on rebuilding a Duratec 2.0l for a new Birkin. I'll most likely add stage 2 cams and raise the compression to 11:1 or so. Fairly conventional. Several questions have come to mind so far:

    In looking at used motors, are there any unusual problems to look for? Is there enough liner thickness to safely rebore to 88mm if needed?

    How much can safely be taken off the head? Do the heads tend to warp?

    In general, what is the consensus on the necessary bore size of the throttle bodies for such a project? I plan on using the Ford MS injectors as well.

    Have any of you seen electric water pumps used on these engines? Worth at least 10hp in the upper RPM range.

    Source for a well baffled shallow wet sump oil pan?

    On of the aspects of building this type of car is the freedom from "formula" constraints. That seems to be a common thread on this site and much appreciated.

    TIA
    1. Low mileage mo betta. I picked one up out of a, um, yard, and it ran like a raped ape up until I, uh, overlooked something. Then it was gone. SBD says don't go to 89mm bore and I believe them (even though I have - it runs kinda hot).

    2. No need to shave the head as there are pistons out there. Just have it flowed.

    3. Look at SBD's web site. They offer a high spec and a regular spec. I've run both (and have both). The regular spec will suit what you're thinking about. The high spec is for wilder applications.

    43. Yes, I have one on mine. Briefly: do it. There's some mounting issues and plumbing design involved but I have that all worked out, and nicely, if I do say so myself. Easiest HP you can find. And not much money.

    5. I have used. Raceline has new. It's the same kit. I have SBD TBs as well. They have always worked flawlessly and were doing so when I blowed it up. Buzz me if interested. I have a loom and older ECU as well. Virtually plug-n-play.

    6. Yeah, I don't quite understand why anyone would build a car to a spec just for the purpose of being limited by a sanctioning body's rules and regs that pander to major manufacturer's marketing goals. Build what you want and find a more, um, liberal organization to run with sez I. You can go faster that way.

    Edit: I'm running a pretty high (but not highest) spec 2.064L now. It is spectacular. Ask more and I'll do my best to help, such as I can.
    Last edited by moosetestbestanden; November 25, 2014, 07:44 PM.
    Chris
    ------------
    A day you don't go a hundred is a day wasted

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    • #3
      Chris,

      Thanks. Getting a little backed up on "end of the year" projects right now and I still have a Z4 coupe to sell. This particular project will start to come together after the first of the year. I hope to pick up the kit in early February. After driving Randall's Birkin, the wider chassis seems a smart move. I do plan on picking up a Subaru diff when I have a day to rummage around the yards in North Burbank. I'll be in touch.

      Kevin
      Wide-body Birkin, 2.3l Duratec

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