Has anyone installed one of these water rails? I eliminated my heater a long time back and am wanting to tidy things up and eliminate the coolant hoses that I can.
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
Retro Ford Duratec water rail
Collapse
X
-
Last edited by moosetestbestanden; July 29, 2013, 07:02 AM.Chris
------------
A day you don't go a hundred is a day wasted
Comment
-
-
Originally posted by Doug Liedblad View PostChris
Can you post a photo?
From the 'Check yer sump bolts' thread, which I hope to be able to update sometime w/in the next couple of weeks. Frickin SoCal shops...
Edit: btw, I ended up not using it, at least for now. I have to have a bleed fitting welded onto it. So I used the Caterham one (from the 2nd link posted above) and a silicone 90.Last edited by moosetestbestanden; July 30, 2013, 08:06 AM.Chris
------------
A day you don't go a hundred is a day wasted
Comment
-
-
I took a look at a local CSR last night, it uses this combo:
photo1.jpg1914-1912-thickbox.jpg4718-4965-thickbox.jpg
The water outlet is currently not available.Attached Filessigpic
2010 Roadsport SV 170
Comment
-
-
This picture shows the current water outlet (leads to water rail from the black hose below the intake), its what I want to replace to free up space and clean things up (rerouting hoses, and eliminating in some cases). Offending water outlet circled in red.
water_outlet.jpgsigpic
2010 Roadsport SV 170
Comment
-
-
Hey boss,
I once was told that the CSR one you have shown above was prone to leaking/failure at the o-ring seal, but that may have been remedied by now - I don't know. In any case, my engine was supplied with the water outlet you have shown in post #6 above, but no tube (water rail). On the advice of Freestyle, I ended buying the shorter version of that water outlet, which Cosworth lists as P/N YD8100 - "Water Outlet, Cylinder Head-Short with Bypass Fitting", and can be found here (and maybe other places?): Caterham Parts: Water Outlet - Duratec Race Type; P/N YD8100, though they are currently shown as out of stock.
I attached a 90آ° elbow hose between that and an earlier version of this water rail: Caterham Parts: Water Rail - Top - Engine to Radiator - C400; P/N 0105K0002A.
I have had no issues with this set-up, but then there are lots of ways to skin a cat, so whatever works. Best of luck to you.Last edited by Sean; July 30, 2013, 06:34 PM.| | Sean
Comment
-
-
Thanks Sean, does that short version have ports for the two temp sensors that the car uses? Is that small connection on the water rail the one that goes to the expansion tank (top)? If you have a chance to take a picture of your setup from above I'd appreciate it.
Cheers,
Adamsigpic
2010 Roadsport SV 170
Comment
-
-
Mine only has a single coolant temperature sensor, and it threads into the top of the YD8100 (lower right in the photo above). The smaller tube coming from the water outlet with the 90آ° bend (upper left in the photo above) is a bypass that routes under the intake to the thermostat housing. The remaining boss is unused, but I suppose it could easily be configured for another sensor.
Yes, the small tube coming out of the water rail tube points "backwards" from the coolant flow direction and routes to the expansion tank. A bit dark for photos now (crap lighting in my garage), and I won't be around in daylight hours tomorrow, but will try to snap a photo or two in the next few days.| | Sean
Comment
-
-
I used this one and elbowed off of it w/ some silicone hose. Down side is that it's 1" ID, so I had to get a 1" - 1.25" elbow, which wasn't really a problem. HPS has em, available all over the web.
SBDev has the fitting on this page. They're great to work with too. Tell Carole Chris from California sez hi if you go there.
The temperature sensor input is right next to the outlet, w/ the bleed just above. Beauty is that you can go right or left w/ the EllBow, depending on your radiator. Finding the right mounting points and associated hardware ain't that difficult either way. That's why god made McMaster Carr.
Edit: It's all pretty visible in the link I posted earlier in this thread.Last edited by moosetestbestanden; July 30, 2013, 09:44 PM.Chris
------------
A day you don't go a hundred is a day wasted
Comment
-
-
Chris, I see your water rail, quick question, do you have an expansion tank plumbed in and if so how?
I know the SBD folks, I also have an ECU, ITB's and other bits and pieces from them.
Originally posted by moosetestbestanden View PostI used this one and elbowed off of it w/ some silicone hose. Down side is that it's 1" ID, so I had to get a 1" - 1.25" elbow, which wasn't really a problem. HPS has em, available all over the web.
SBDev has the fitting on this page. They're great to work with too. Tell Carole Chris from California sez hi if you go there.
The temperature sensor input is right next to the outlet, w/ the bleed just above. Beauty is that you can go right or left w/ the EllBow, depending on your radiator. Finding the right mounting points and associated hardware ain't that difficult either way. That's why god made McMaster Carr.
Edit: It's all pretty visible in the link I posted earlier in this thread.sigpic
2010 Roadsport SV 170
Comment
-
-
Originally posted by boss351 View PostChris, I see your water rail, quick question, do you have an expansion tank plumbed in and if so how?
SBD has a cooling layout PDF here It's for cars fitted w/ the electric water pump (which I did) but would be little different even w/ the belt driven pump.
Edit: I did exactly the layout shown in the diagram as I opted for an electric pump.Chris
------------
A day you don't go a hundred is a day wasted
Comment
-
-
boss - I was wrong in post #8 above. The short water outlet does have two sensors in it; one for the sender that goes to the gauge, and another for the sender that goes to the ECU.
I never did take a photo for you, as I just plain forgot. If you still need one, let me know, and I'll get one for you.| | Sean
Comment
-
Comment