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Duratec clutch slave cylinder

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  • Elv15
    replied
    It has the stock flywheel (big brute of a thing). Not sure of the clutch disk. I'll take a pic of it when I get home...but it looks like a stock unit.

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  • Sean
    replied
    I also have a clutch from AP Racing in my car, but I do not know the part number/model number.

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  • JohnCh
    replied
    Tom, what clutch do you have now? I'm using Raceline's AP Racing HD/lightweight flywheel combo which is every bit as drivable as my various tintops. No idea on the wear rate, but it is about 25k miles old with no indication that the end is nigh.

    -John

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  • Elv15
    replied
    Engine is out. The slave is blown. The clutch disk was quite worn for 20k miles. I suspect it was underated for the HP. There is burning marks on the flywheel and pressure plate.

    I also disassembled the slave - it is not serviceable, but I was able to calculate the maximum travel - it has a maximum (safe) travel of 14mm. This will keep the piston in the bore. Any more travel and the piston is hyper extending and will evenutally pop out. Once it pops, it cuts the seal and it's toast.

    I also measured the spacer in my transmission. It is 9.3mm. I need to build a tool to measure the TRB to pressure plate distance. This will tell me if the spacer is the right thickness.

    I'll need a new slave and a new clutch (at the very least). I want to find a clutch that will not wear as fast but is still streetable. IMG_9175.jpgIMG_9177.jpg

    Tom

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  • Elv15
    replied
    Hi Chris, the pull is in process. I'll post some pics as it progresses.

    I'm compiling a list of parts (mostly gaskets) and other things to fix while I'm in there (small oil leak on the front cover of the engine), small weep on the tranny (don't know exactly where until I have the engine out - I recall Follis Jones had a nagging oil leak, I'll have to find his post about what he did to fix it).

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  • moosetestbestanden
    replied
    Hey Tom, did you pull it and split it yet?

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  • moosetestbestanden
    replied
    DUDE! PM me your pertinent info.

    Edit: To outlanders.... I am compelled by state law to use the word 'dude' in these circumstances. :-P :-D

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  • Elv15
    replied
    Hey Chris,

    I'm going to order from the Ebay listing. I'll order one for you too.

    Tom

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  • moosetestbestanden
    replied
    I finished dismantling mine last night. The rigid pipe was a bee-yitch - you can't get the slave out until you remove it and you can't remove it unless you can get a wrench on it. It has flats machined (or whatever) into it near where it threads into the slave. You'll need a *short* 9mm open end wrench, or tiny vice grips maybe. The tube is thick walled so crushing it probably isn't a problem. Mine was Loctited in. Ugh.

    I'm mystified by his comments as well. Frankly mine always worked great w/ the 10mm plate & the AP clutch I had in the car.

    As far as re-building mine, well, I'd have to take it apart 1st. I did that with a 10 speed derailleur when I was in 9th grade. It came apart very nicely. It never went back together again.... so I'm replacing it as a precautionary measure, and to introduce yet one more change in this project (i.e. another opportunity for me to make what may be a very time consuming mistake).

    So, if you're of a mind to buy one (rather than rebuild) at the link you posted, make it 2 and I'll send money - I don't have an ebay account. It's fully آ£100.00 less than the others I've found :-/. Do tell.

    And lastly, in order to add some OT life to this thread...

    I reckon there's no guarantee that the Saab unit is / will be any more reliable than the Ford unit. Of those 2 car companies, one is still in business...:-O

    P.S.: the inside of the bellhousing you have most likely does *not* look like the one in the photo you posted. Mine certainly doesn't. There's little flange wingy things and shit all around per the photo I attached above. Wheee.
    Last edited by moosetestbestanden; February 22, 2012, 07:39 AM. Reason: Spelling of course.

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  • Elv15
    replied
    Thanks for all of the tips. I have not taken mine apart, but I'm sure it looks just like yours Chris. It is odd that Mic is suggesting a thinner spacer. I would have thought the opposite. I'm not a fan of this unit (since it broke on me) and wonder if the Saab unit has a longer stroke...

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  • moosetestbestanden
    replied
    Hey Tom, did you buy the slave listed on ebay?

    Edit: See what Mic (he built the Duranail I believe) says about the spacer here.
    Last edited by moosetestbestanden; February 21, 2012, 06:16 PM. Reason: Added reference to blat chat thread

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  • Doug Liedblad
    replied
    Chris

    There is a seal around the input shaft, inside the tube that the input shaft goes thru. See A in attached. I might have one in my spares. Otherwise check BAT British American Transfer out of Florida. There are other sources for T9 bits around too. http://www.batinc.net/merkur.htm

    You can see the seal sort of just behind the nosepiece the TOB rides on. Remove the four bolts and it's pressed in the back end. See T9 part1 page 16A-7

    Also check the spigot bearing inside the end of the crankshaft as it may have a spring as well.
    Attached Files
    Last edited by Doug Liedblad; February 17, 2012, 06:14 PM.

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  • moosetestbestanden
    replied
    Tom, I don't know if you've opened it back up yet - photo is the Mondeo unit that you undoubtedly have.

    The circular plate behind is 10mm thick. Caterham show 2 on their website, one for a Duratec at آ£13.75 and the R400 one at آ£42.00. (ex. VAT). They look pretty much the same. Huh?

    Anyway, I'm yanking all of this tomorrow to have a good look at everything before I decide whether or not to source another entire unit (at آ£140.00 - frickin ouch), or get the rebuild bits and refresh it, or do nothing at all and put everything back the way it was. If it ain't broke etc. etc. etc

    Personally I think your failure was almost more unusual than it was unfortunate.

    Note the o-ring type thing dangling around the input shaft. It's actually a very finely wound steel spring ring that appeared when I split the engine from the bellhousing. I don't know where it goes as this didn't occur the last time I did the ol' pull-er-roo. Do you or anybody else of the annular variety :-O out there know?
    Attached Files

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  • moosetestbestanden
    replied
    Caterham clutch orings and spacers here

    Not sure what the difference is between the 2 shown, other than about 25 Sterling. I'll find out when I call.

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  • moosetestbestanden
    replied
    Originally posted by Doug Liedblad View Post

    PS. So far the only real advantage I can see for the annular hydraulic TOB is that you have to remove the engine to fix it. I have the lever arm and external slave cylinder.
    Caterham have them here at a little less than the Raceline price.

    Leave a comment:

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