No announcement yet.

How to fix a connector like this

  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • How to fix a connector like this

    Broken wire on throttle position sensor:

    Nothing to get on to to solder it. Any idea if these connectors can be bought with wires fitted for a splice or how to get in there and fix it??

    Is the sensor from a Ford Focus, I am not having any internet luck with the numbers on it (988F9B989BB BB 8601A):

    Last edited by boss351; September 13, 2010, 07:34 PM.
    2010 Roadsport SV 170

  • #2
    I had the same problem with my MAP sensor connector. A shop I went to pryed the insert (green plastic covered in yours) out of the connector, and had a similar insert that we fastened to the wires and stuck back in the original connector. I'm not sure if this was just lucky that they had something that fit, or if it is something they come across regularly and have inserts available.

    Good luck!



    • #3
      I am going to hit the Ford parts department tomorrow and see if a pigtail (now found that term is used for what I need) is available. Another option is cutting one off a harness in a junk car, kind of unlikely if its a fairly recent car part only, or, like you say, try and fix it by brute force and luck..
      2010 Roadsport SV 170


      • #4
        That is a AMP connector, from their SSC line of under-hood automotive connectors. They are made and distributed by Tyco Electronics. Catalog here:

        They typically don't sell to the public as a general rule, but they may send samples if you ask, or if you know somebody who works in automotive or related industry and have them ask. Of course, you will need to determine which parts in the catalog are used to make up your connector, and that is the hardest part.

        I would imagine it is a standard connector on the Ranger and Focus (?).

        edit - I do not believe that is a SSC type connector after all, though it could be. Still probably from Tyco, as they seem to be the sole source for damn near every connector out there anymore. Mine was a Tyco (AMP) SSC type connector.
        Last edited by Sean; September 15, 2010, 11:54 AM. Reason: correct misleading information
        | | Sean


        • #5
          A pigtail is a good solution if Ford has one. They usually want a lot of $ for them.

          They may also have just the crimp on connector that goes inside. You may be able to repair what you have if there is enough service loop.

          I might have some of the connectors too and could mail you a couple.

          They may be also be the AMP Econoseal connectors. I studied this alot when I was building my own wiring harness.

          Call me if you need help getting them apart, it's usually very easy to do.

          Attached Files
          Last edited by Doug Liedblad; September 13, 2010, 11:01 PM.


          • #6
            Thanks for the help guys. The Ford Parts department has something coming in for me (a pigtail) later today, I'll post here to let you know how it goes.

            I found this useful reference also for assemblies:


            The part is costing $39 by the way. Worth more than that to me if it solves my problems though!

            I just found this place that has all the connectors (using that pdf as a reference), good for the future, same part $12!

            Last edited by boss351; September 14, 2010, 06:45 AM. Reason: Added another link
            2010 Roadsport SV 170


            • #7
              The Pointe Products is a good find. I looked for these open barrel connectors for some time and ended up buying from the UK. (Vehicle Wiring Products). They didn't have a 10,000 pc minium.

              You can get the adhesive lined heat shrink tubing from McMaster Carr.

              I went to buy the pigtail for the fuel pump inertial cutoff switch from Ford $56.00. I told the guy I'd rather burn and found a $2 solution.

              Last edited by Doug Liedblad; September 14, 2010, 07:06 AM.


              • #8
                Car is running better now..:D
                2010 Roadsport SV 170


                • #9
                  Guys, please note Sean's post above. Tyco WILL send you samples ( you can order up to 10 of any one item). It is VERY helpful to have extra pins like this on hand.

                  FYI, I've also used Waytek Wire.

                  Tom "ELV15" Jones


                  • #10
                    I went digging through my old e-mails to find the one with details from when I built my own pigtail to attach to the TPS on my Duratec, which looked like this:

                    For future reference, following are the part numbers and quantities required for one of these connector assemblies from Tyco Electronics, SSC (Sealed Socket Connector) system:
                    • 184192-1 CAP HOUSING (1 req'd)
                    • 184196-1 CAP LOCK PLATE (1 req'd)
                    • 171661-1 TAP CONTACT (3 req'd)
                    • 184140-1 WIRE SEAL (3 req'd)

                    ...and the color-coding pin assignments, found on the Cosworth documentation:
                    • blue to pin 1 (bottom on the TPS)
                    • green to pin 2 (center)
                    • yellow to pin 3 (top on the TPS)
                    I am really posting this here for my own future benefit, because finding that old e-mail was time-consuming, but if it helps others too, all the better. Upon further scrutiny, Boss351's TPS looks a little different than the one on my engine.

                    Best of luck!
                    Last edited by Sean; September 15, 2010, 11:35 AM.
                    | | Sean