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Hey Doug / Magnus

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  • Hey Doug / Magnus

    New rotors (Moss Motors - paid them a visit Saturday - nice fellas!) in the garage now, w/ the old ones off. I assume it's an impact wrench (ain't got one) to get the hubs off the old and on the new. Correct? Any known torque value?
    Chris
    ------------
    A day you don't go a hundred is a day wasted

  • #2
    I used an impact but here is another way.

    http://alcester-racing-sevens.com/hi_spec_4-pots.htm

    Or go to Harbor Freight, Home Depot, or Sears and buy an inexpensive impact driver.

    1/2" drive.

    Have you installed your uprated spindles yet?

    Doug
    Last edited by Doug Liedblad; January 17, 2010, 10:35 PM.

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    • #3
      Originally posted by Doug Liedblad View Post
      Have you installed your uprated spindles yet?
      Doug
      Old hubs coming off of the car w/in the week, then I'll get the old pressed out then I'll have questions.:D
      Chris
      ------------
      A day you don't go a hundred is a day wasted

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      • #4
        I've not upgraded my spindles yet, so Magnus or M. Murphy might be a better source for info.

        It looks to be straight forward once you get the old ones out.

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        • #5
          Thnaks for the 'top tip' (English English!) Doug. Fronts off now - I'll be having a look at the hubs later today. I'm hoping a local brake shop can press the old bearings out. Blat Chatters say putting the new in can be done w/out a press. MM, if you're still around, any tips?
          Chris
          ------------
          A day you don't go a hundred is a day wasted

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          • #6
            I've always clamped the disks in a vise and used a regular socket to get the bolts holding the hub out.

            The upgraded hubs use conical bearings that slide right off the spindle. I believe the stock hubs are identical in this matter. I usually tighten the main hub nut, which holds the conical bearings against the tapered hub hole, until the washer behind the nut offers a bit of resistance as I move it around with a screwdriver.

            /Magnus F.

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            • #7
              Thanks Magnus. Do you know the torque setting for the disc-to-hub bolts? Are those 1 time use?

              Bolts coming out (rears discs) had green threadlocker on them. Comments?
              Chris
              ------------
              A day you don't go a hundred is a day wasted

              Comment


              • #8
                I reused them on M. Murphy's car the one time we worked on his disk brakes.

                I have green locktite for holding pressed cylinderical parts together. According to the the specs RED is stronger.

                If the hubs get >150آ؛ C it doesn't matter as the locktite has lost it's strength.


                Check here: http://www.triumphspitfire.com/Torque.html
                Last edited by Doug Liedblad; January 24, 2010, 07:46 PM. Reason: link to better torque specs

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                • #9
                  I don't have a torque spec, but usually go with "quite a bit". They do tend to stick like hell once they see some mileage, probably due to the thermal expansion/contraction cycles.

                  /Magnus F.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Doug Liedblad View Post
                    If the hubs get >150آ؛ C it doesn't matter as the locktite has lost it's strength.
                    I think you'll find that loctite is pretty conservative about their temperature ratings.

                    I use #262 (red) on fasteners subjected to heavy shock/vibration loads. This would be a perfect application for 262. I also don't think you're going to see higher than 300deg F on a hub.


                    Originally posted by Doug Liedblad View Post
                    I have green locktite for holding pressed cylinderical parts together. According to the the specs RED is stronger.
                    I think you mean retaining compound 601 (green). Do they carry a red retaining compound? The threadlocker green (#290) is actually a penetrating compound that is drawn into assembled and torqued threads via capillary action. It's strength should be somewhere near loctite blue when cured.

                    Whatever you use, make sure you use brake cleaner and get all of the oil and drirt off the thread.
                    Last edited by GWise; January 25, 2010, 06:11 PM.

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                    • #11
                      You can use this instructional video as a motivator to get things right.

                      http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jv4m41viy4I

                      /Magnus F.

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                      • #12
                        GWise is the engineer so I'd listen to him.

                        I make this stuff up as I go along.


                        Doug

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