Hey Doug / Magnus

[moosetestbestanden]

New rotors (Moss Motors - paid them a visit Saturday - nice fellas!) in the garage now, w/ the old ones off. I assume it's an impact wrench (ain't got one) to get the hubs off the old and on the new. Correct? Any known torque value?

[Doug Liedblad]

I used an impact but here is another way.

http://alcester-racing-sevens.com/hi_spec_4-pots.htm

Or go to Harbor Freight, Home Depot, or Sears and buy an inexpensive impact driver.

1/2" drive.

Have you installed your uprated spindles yet?

Doug

[moosetestbestanden]

Have you installed your uprated spindles yet?
Doug

Old hubs coming off of the car w/in the week, then I'll get the old pressed out then I'll have questions.:D

[Doug Liedblad]

I've not upgraded my spindles yet, so Magnus or M. Murphy might be a better source for info.

It looks to be straight forward once you get the old ones out.

[moosetestbestanden]

Thnaks for the 'top tip' (English English!) Doug. Fronts off now - I'll be having a look at the hubs later today. I'm hoping a local brake shop can press the old bearings out. Blat Chatters say putting the new in can be done w/out a press. MM, if you're still around, any tips?

[magnusfeuer]

I've always clamped the disks in a vise and used a regular socket to get the bolts holding the hub out.

The upgraded hubs use conical bearings that slide right off the spindle. I believe the stock hubs are identical in this matter. I usually tighten the main hub nut, which holds the conical bearings against the tapered hub hole, until the washer behind the nut offers a bit of resistance as I move it around with a screwdriver.

/Magnus F.

[moosetestbestanden]

Thanks Magnus. Do you know the torque setting for the disc-to-hub bolts? Are those 1 time use?

Bolts coming out (rears discs) had green threadlocker on them. Comments?

[Doug Liedblad]

I reused them on M. Murphy's car the one time we worked on his disk brakes.

I have green locktite for holding pressed cylinderical parts together. According to the the specs RED is stronger.

If the hubs get >150آ؛ C it doesn't matter as the locktite has lost it's strength.


Check here: http://www.triumphspitfire.com/Torque.html

[magnusfeuer]

I don't have a torque spec, but usually go with "quite a bit". They do tend to stick like hell once they see some mileage, probably due to the thermal expansion/contraction cycles.

/Magnus F.

[GWise]

If the hubs get >150آ؛ C it doesn't matter as the locktite has lost it's strength.

I think you'll find that loctite is pretty conservative about their temperature ratings.

I use #262 (red) on fasteners subjected to heavy shock/vibration loads. This would be a perfect application for 262. I also don't think you're going to see higher than 300deg F on a hub.

I have green locktite for holding pressed cylinderical parts together. According to the the specs RED is stronger.

I think you mean retaining compound 601 (green). Do they carry a red retaining compound? The threadlocker green (#290) is actually a penetrating compound that is drawn into assembled and torqued threads via capillary action. It's strength should be somewhere near loctite blue when cured.

Whatever you use, make sure you use brake cleaner and get all of the oil and drirt off the thread.

[magnusfeuer]

You can use this instructional video as a motivator to get things right.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jv4m41viy4I

/Magnus F.

[Doug Liedblad]

GWise is the engineer so I'd listen to him.

I make this stuff up as I go along.


Doug