I wasn't planning on rebuilding my tranny, but I had some time waiting for the last few pieces of my swap to come along. Since I had ordered the bearing and gasket kit already when I broke my speedo gear, I said what the hell...
I've done only 2 other transmissions in the past and I'd recommend a very good set of internal, external and horseshoe shapped pliers to remove all the various sizes of snap rings, retaining rings and circlips. A good strong set is crucial as the type 9 is filled with them. I used a generic 3 arm bearing/gear puller to help me get the bearing and gears off. Also, keep everything clean, neat and organized with many trays and labels for all the different parts. Take lots of pictures to help you remember where it goes in case you forget later.
You can order pretty much all the parts you need from here:
http://www.bearingkits.co.uk/
I used these PDF’s as a reference guide
http://mjdtopsites.com/images/type_9-N_gearbox.pdf
http://www.sjmmarsh.com/7files/Gearbox_T9_6.pdf
Now let's gets started:
Here’s a quick overview of the different parts inside and out:


Remove tranny from engine, bell housing and drain fluid.
If you haven't already done so or if you have one, carefully remove the speedo sensor and back up switch sitting on the lower right side. The speed sensor on mine unscrews at the brass portion and then very slowly pull out the quill that is connected to the speedo gear. Then using a flat head, you can pry out the cover on the opposite end. Once the cover is off, you can push the speedo gear through and out on the left side.
Remove the small rectangular breather plate on the top rear of the tranny.
At the top left corner on the left side of the main case, unscrew the allen plug, spring and plunger.
Put it in first gear and then remove shifter. Make sure you also remove the black plastic saddle that the shifter fork sits on. Putting it in first gear allows you to access the drift pin that keeps the selector rail connected to the main selector shaft. I use a small punch pin with the correct size to tap it out.
Lightly tap the rear cover plate out from the inside and remove the selector rail and drift pin.
Remove the 6 bolts on the top lid of the main case. Looking inside from front to back, you’ll see the brass 5-6th gear selector, and the 1-2nd gear selector. The 3-4th gear selector is on the back end.

I've done only 2 other transmissions in the past and I'd recommend a very good set of internal, external and horseshoe shapped pliers to remove all the various sizes of snap rings, retaining rings and circlips. A good strong set is crucial as the type 9 is filled with them. I used a generic 3 arm bearing/gear puller to help me get the bearing and gears off. Also, keep everything clean, neat and organized with many trays and labels for all the different parts. Take lots of pictures to help you remember where it goes in case you forget later.
You can order pretty much all the parts you need from here:
http://www.bearingkits.co.uk/
I used these PDF’s as a reference guide
http://mjdtopsites.com/images/type_9-N_gearbox.pdf
http://www.sjmmarsh.com/7files/Gearbox_T9_6.pdf
Now let's gets started:
Here’s a quick overview of the different parts inside and out:


Remove tranny from engine, bell housing and drain fluid.
If you haven't already done so or if you have one, carefully remove the speedo sensor and back up switch sitting on the lower right side. The speed sensor on mine unscrews at the brass portion and then very slowly pull out the quill that is connected to the speedo gear. Then using a flat head, you can pry out the cover on the opposite end. Once the cover is off, you can push the speedo gear through and out on the left side.
Remove the small rectangular breather plate on the top rear of the tranny.
At the top left corner on the left side of the main case, unscrew the allen plug, spring and plunger.
Put it in first gear and then remove shifter. Make sure you also remove the black plastic saddle that the shifter fork sits on. Putting it in first gear allows you to access the drift pin that keeps the selector rail connected to the main selector shaft. I use a small punch pin with the correct size to tap it out.
Lightly tap the rear cover plate out from the inside and remove the selector rail and drift pin.
Remove the 6 bolts on the top lid of the main case. Looking inside from front to back, you’ll see the brass 5-6th gear selector, and the 1-2nd gear selector. The 3-4th gear selector is on the back end.


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