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  • *$#@! pedal box

    Just venting - no real solution other than to have a drink and complain. I really love the R500, but whoever designed the pedal box is either a moron or just plain evil. In a car that is billed as a track car, and a price tag of $80k, you would think that there would be a little bit of thought and testing put into it. It's not like they had to redesign the whole car - most of it is the same as it has been for decades.

    I love driving this thing, but I've spent too much time contorted and upside down in an impossibly tight hole trying to fix and adjust the throttle cable, and to adjust the pedals. I know that it goes along with having a car like this, but I much prefer driving to tinkering, especially in such unnatural positions.

    Like I said, I love this car more than anything I've ever driven, but just had to whine a little! Taking it out on the track tomorrow, so I will soon forget the frustrations of today.

    Justin

  • #2
    As I recall the pedal box on your car is different on the older, less expensive models.

    So you paid for the privlage of having something to vent about.

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    • #3
      That's cause they pedals were designed for the other side of the car:p

      At least your getting to abuse... I mean use the car on the track more than most of us. Getting your money's worth so to speak.

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      • #4
        Just a few notes on tires from yesterday's track day. I've been experimenting with a few different setups, and here is my experience so far.

        Avon CR500's. 175/55 F, 205/55 R. Fun, surprisingly quick for street tires, but wear out quickly on track. I'm sliding all over, but end up with decent lap times.

        Kumho V710. 215/50 F&R. My favorite all-around tire. Pretty quick, wear very well.

        ACB-10's 195/50 F, 245/45 R. Fun but not as quick as Kumho's.

        Hankook V200 slicks. 160/550 F, 210/570 R. Poor balance, hard to get front to grip. Poor braking and lots of understeer.

        Hankook V200 210/570 F&R. Best lap times, great balance.

        For comparison, here are some best lap times at SOWS CCW. Not done on the same day except for Hankooks, so limited usefulness:

        CR500's 124.4
        Kumho 125.3
        Hankook 160/550 and 210/570 126.5
        Hankook 210/570 F&R 123.0

        I would liked to do a direct comparison of the CR500's and Kumho's on the same day. I think the Kumho's would be faster. When I'm on the CR500's, I'm sliding through every corner. Interestingly, I have been autocrossing on the ACB10's and CR500's on the same day, and found the ACB10's much faster. But I've also used the ACB10's and Kumho's on the same day and found the Kumho's to be faster. Despite the above numbers, based on all my experience and biases so far I would rank them in grip/speed in this order:

        1. Hankook slicks
        2. Kumho V710's
        3. ACB 10's
        4. CR500's

        I know that the typical setup for these cars on hillclimbs and road competitions is to have smaller fronts than rears, but for whatever reason (car setup, driving habits) I prefer the same size on all fours.

        Next time I buy tires it will be a set of Hoosier A6's. Of the above tires, I prefer the Kumho V710's for cost/grip. OK, now back to work!

        Justin

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        • #5
          ACB10's are *very* temperature sensitive. When they're cold they're f'ing worthless.

          The 888s from Toyo are supposed to be pretty good, for a street tire. You may want to give em a try. I'm going to when my street tires wear out (and I actually finish the project :-O).
          Chris
          ------------
          A day you don't go a hundred is a day wasted

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          • #6
            Ive tracked the 888s and like them a lot. My Kumho V710s are stickier, but the 888s can be used on/off track and are very predictable.

            /Magnus F.

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            • #7


              Is your pedal box any different than this? I guess I don't understand why you have to get under it?

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              • #8
                My pedal box is different. It is re-designed, smaller than my previous car, and hard to get access to. The access plate on top doesn't help. The reasons I have had to get access are to replace the throttle cable that broke (poorly designed), and then to try and set up the pedals well for heel/toe work. I know that any pedal box is hard to access from underneath in a seven, so I can't completely fault the designers. I would just think that if I were billing the car as a track car I would design it for better access. And the throttle cable is built in a way that it rubs on the cable. I just plan on having to replace the cable every year or so until I come up with a better setup.


                Justin

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                • #9
                  Maybe an electronic throttle control would be the way to go.

                  That would mean quite a bit of work, however, since there doesn't seem to be a generic aftermarket solution available.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by magnusfeuer View Post
                    Maybe an electronic throttle control would be the way to go.

                    That would mean quite a bit of work, however, since there doesn't seem to be a generic aftermarket solution available.
                    Sounds like a business opportunity :D
                    Chris
                    ------------
                    A day you don't go a hundred is a day wasted

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by GWise View Post
                      http://www.zcars.com.au/images/cater...ht-engine1.jpg

                      Is your pedal box any different than this? I guess I don't understand why you have to get under it?
                      It's different

                      www.morgansegal.com

                      The funny thing is my wife goes " What is that car a Morgan ? " and I said "No that's a Caterham but there is a Morgan driving it " -delise

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                      • #12
                        Moose: Probably is.
                        The big challenge is to develop adapters for the various throttle body solutions out there.
                        After that, you need a generic and flexible solution to attach a potentiometer to the throttle pedal.

                        Software would be a breeze:
                        Go to the website and draw up the curve that relates pedal position to throttle position.
                        Download a generated file from the website to a USB stick in your computer.
                        Insert stick into the box that comes with the kit.
                        Turn on ignition.

                        I'm a software guy, if that is not obvious...

                        /Magnus F.

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