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Wanted: Quick Release Steering Set Up

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  • Wanted: Quick Release Steering Set Up

    Hi,

    I'm thinking about changing my current steering column/hub.

    Anyone know what is available for the Caterham?

    Thanks,
    Scott

  • #2
    Scott, I found this on the rmsci.com parts list, under steering:

    75030A QUICK RELEASE COLUMN - no steer lock $347.20

    From what I understand you have to replace the top piece of the steering column to switch to the quick release hub.

    Cheers,

    Tom
    Tom "ELV15" Jones
    http://PIErats.com

    Comment


    • #3
      Scott

      Another possible source is James Whiting.

      http://www.jameswhiting.com/page4.html

      Doug

      Comment


      • #4
        Pegasus also caries them.

        -John
        Westfield SEiW
        2.0L Duratec
        Throttle Steer

        Comment


        • #5
          Thanks, I'm going to look at a couple of them at a local store to see which one make the most sense.

          Scott

          Comment


          • #6
            Scott, my car came with a Racetech quick release wheel already installed. It is a very small diameter steering wheel (smaller than other sevens) and I like it a lot, but it obscures the top half of the speedo and tacho. I solved the problem by turning the instruments upside down, but I'm passing this along just to remind you to pay attention to steering wheel size options when you compare quick release packages.

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            • #7
              I solved the problem by turning the instruments upside down,
              So that they can be properly read down under, even when one isn't down under.

              Just a reminder to our viewers that this is written, produced and directed by an Aussie. TOO RIGHT MATE! OI :D
              Chris
              ------------
              A day you don't go a hundred is a day wasted

              Comment


              • #8
                Chris, I am disappointed in your flaky knowledge of southern hemisphere physics. As most world travellers would know, it is not necessary to turn the gauges upside down because the whole car is inverted (which, actually, makes it the right way up) when it moves to the southern hemisphere. The real problem is that the clockwise rotation of the dials must be reversed, since all circular motion is counter-clockwise south of the Equator. Caterham sells a set of very thick driving glasses that give the appearance that the dial readouts are reversed. Also quite handy for Americans who are not familiar with driving on the right (correct) side of the road. They take some getting used to and women are warned not to apply makeup while wearing same until confident that they know their left (right) hand from their right (left), if you follow me. But it's a much more economical option than replacing the whole dash display. British ingenuity at its best.

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                • #9
                  You can get the steering column and quick release from Caterham's Online Store, for UKP120 (Ex VAT). Part Number: 75030A.
                  http://www.sevenbuilder.com (WARNING: Don't click if you're offended by Seven blogs with ads)

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                  • #10
                    Thanks for the information of the quick release hub. I was searching online for the Racetech quick release hub and found a non-Caterham dealer in the US selling the units for $185 plus shipping.

                    Scott

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                    • #11
                      Scott

                      Is it designed for a Caterham?

                      The quick release comes with the short section of the steering shaft that connects just below the brake master cylinder.

                      This short section has the splines on it for the quick release boss.

                      How is the car running?

                      Doug

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                      • #12
                        Hi Doug,
                        For the most part the car is okay, I did have a problem with it today though.
                        I took a one mile ride and when I got home my battery was dead, it's a new Odyssey PC680 battery. I check the car for voltage leaks and the only thing I found was that the coil, if I put a grounded tester light on the Negative post on the coil.... the car stalls immediately, but not on the positive post.... the positive side lights up normally.
                        Any thoughts, do you think I have a bad coil or a combination of a bad coil and bad Pertronix module in my distributor.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Scott

                          If it was a bad coil it probably wouldn't run to begin with.

                          The light connected to the negative terminal may just be grounding out the coil, if I recall distributors completed the circuit to ground.

                          Check the alternator output. It should be 13.5+ volts when running.

                          Check the alternator belt tension to be sure the alternator is not slipping. You should not be able to turn the alternator pulley by hand.

                          If the battery was fully charged when you started and it was too low to start the car after a short ride then something somewhere must have gotten very hot. Most likly is that the battery is not charging and was just up enough to start the car and get you the one mile.

                          Doug

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Hey Doug,
                            The motor does start, and the distributors contacts are opening and closing.... I recently installed that new Facet fuel pump, it may not be grounded correctly, do you think that maybe causing a drain on the electrical system when the motor is running?
                            I checked the quick release info on the Racetech, the hub and shaft, the shaft on the standard setting column would have to be cut and the new quick release shaft welded on.... I checked with a local welder and he said the replacement weld would be as strong as the original.
                            Scott

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Scott

                              I suspect that by the time you get the local version done and welded you will have spent as much or more in money and time than the the bolt in version from Caterham. The length must be right and it is not aways easy to butt weld a shaft together as straight as it should be.

                              A failure here has unacceptable outcomes. If the one from Caterham breaks you'll at least have someone to talk to about it.

                              Have you checked the voltage at the battery terminals when the engine is running? At about 2000 rpm it should have > 13 volts.

                              Doug

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